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Around The Town Skirt Suite

Cote Desir: Embellished Swing Coat

CanadianWriter, member

8 users recommend

Côte Désir front.  The hem is wired to show the design for display purposes only.  When I wear it (and I do wear it!), I remove the wire and it swings fully and freely.

Marjorie Lamb

Neck detail.   You can see the single button closure.  A large snap inside keeps the other side (inner edge) in place.  I used different free-motion embroidery for each applique, depending on what I wanted to highlight in each.  Note the dragon's tail peeking through the flowers -- see the head in the next photo.

Marjorie Lamb

Front detail.  Can you spot the blue dragon with two gold horns peeking out of the forest at the top of the photo?  For the scalloped edges on each side of the front, I used free-motion satin stitching with variegated coloured thread, following the outline of the various fabric pieces I had appliqued.

Marjorie Lamb

Lining detail.  I cut out and appliqued an octopus, free-motion satin stitched around the edge, and hand-signed it for my label (writing on its legs).  The lining is all cotton except for the sleeves, which are lined with turquoise silk -- making it easier to slide in and out of the arms.

Marjorie Lamb

My designer inspiration.  Rosemary Eichorn's fabulous coats.  I read every word of her book, The Art of Fabric Collage after seeing one of her garments on display.

Côte Désir front.  The hem is wired to show the design for display purposes only.  When I wear it (and I do wear it!), I remove the wire and it swings fully and freely.

Photo: Marjorie Lamb

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Côte Désir Swing Coat.  I used the basic outline of a swing coat from a Linda MacPhee pattern, but lengthened it, changed the collar and closing, and used it as a blank slate on which to embellish my coat with fabric collage.

The fabrics near the top of the coat are lighter colors -- the sun shines from the top on the flowers, down through the forest where the dragon lives on the front of the coat, and ends at the sea, where numerous sea creatures swim around the hem.  A similar theme runs down the back of the coat.

I used 48 different fabrics -- all cottons except for the sleeve linings, which are silk.  I cut out and appliqued shapes, sometimes following the design printed on the fabrics, sometimes just using abstract shapes.  Included are flowers, fish, octopi, geometrics, batiks, hand-dyed cottons, commercially printed fabrics, and sea-horses cut out from a designer shirt!

I used free-motion embroidery on each applique, leaving the edges raw in most cases, but satin stitching some of the pieces.  I used numerous colors and kinds of threads, including metallics, silks, and rayons.

The coat is fully lined and inter-lined (for structure and warmth).

It took me almost a year to make the coat, after thinking about it and planning it in my head for a few years.  About the name Côte Désir (pronounced coat day-zeer): Côte is a play on the French word for coast, and our word coat, and Désir is a play on our word desire (a desirable coat, I hope) and the French Côte d'Azur (blue coast).

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Comments (6)

Dr_Sandy writes: I really love this.
Posted: 8:54 pm on October 5th

Popsie writes: What a wonderful garment: Beautiful colours and appliques. I am so happy to see that you took the time to plan and execute such a magnificent coat. This entry captured my attention immediately. Excellent work - deserves to be a winner.
Posted: 7:34 pm on October 5th

ElizaDolittle writes: I wanted to add that the orange coat is nice,and it's in my favorite color!, but it isn't a patch, (excuse the pun), on yours. Your use of color and distribution of applique is far more skillful. Love that coat!!!
Posted: 10:50 pm on September 21st

ElizaDolittle writes: Incredible work. It is absolutely gorgeous. I saw a coat like this recently, designer and ridiculously expensive, and it doesn't come close to yours. Brilliant work!
Posted: 10:47 pm on September 21st

CanadianWriter writes: Thanks for your kind words. I should have mentioned that I'm a big fan of Jinny Beyer and her book "Color Confidence for Quilters". I used her method to create my palette of colors for the coat. I found it very useful, even with 48 different fabrics.
Posted: 8:22 am on September 21st

Nicki1213 writes: Wow! This is so incredibly beautiful and inspired. I really love it. I am a watercolorist, and the colors in this coat just speak to me... they are so dynamic. This makes me want to live in a coral reef.
Posted: 4:04 am on September 21st

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